Retour à la homepage
Retour à la page photo principale
Retour à la page techniques

Black & White Prints from Color Slides

This is an extract from a discussion forum copied several years ago.
Unfortunately, I don't remember who was the author and can't grant hoim for the copyright ...
Note that Kodak Panalure (a panchromatic paper) paper does not exist anymore and some commercial chemicals may have disappeared too.

I have some very old Kodak formulae for direct positive development of paper.  I am posting them in case they are of interest.
I have not tried these and have no idea if they will work on modern paper.
If they do reversal processing of Kodak Panalure would provide a way of printing directly from color transparencies.

Direct Positive Paper developer Kodak D-88

The Sodium Hydroxide should be dissolved separately in a small amount of water and the result added to the mixture.
Caution, Sodium Hydroxide evolves considerable heat on solution.

Bleaching Bath Kodak R-9

Caution: Add the Sulfuric Acid slowly to the water. It evolves considerable heat and can boil and splatter.
Caution: Potassium Dichromate can cause severe burns and ulcers which are slow to heal.  Handle with care using protective gloves and clothing. Dichromates are carcinogens.

Clearing Bath Kodak CB-1

Note: Full strength Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent may work for this.

For use:

1. Expose the print.
2. Develop in the D-88 for about one minute.
3. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
4. Bleach, will take about 30 seconds depending on the paper.
5. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
6. Clear in clearing bath. Takes about 30 seconds
7. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
8. Re-expose to fairly bright light.
9. Re-develop in the same developer used for first development.
10. Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
11. Fix, in normal fixer for about 30 seconds (improves highlight brilliance).
12. Wash. Fiber prints should be washed for at least 30 minutes.

Kodak also gives an alternative first and second developer when Sepia prints are desired.
The alternative first developer is:

Kodak SD-2

Second developer for Sepia prints:

Kodak T-19

Re-development will take about 30 seconds.

The fixing step is not required when the sulfide redeveloper is used.

All solutions are to be used full strength.

Good luck, if you actually try this stuff please post the results to the group and to me via e-mail.
It is possible that satisfactory results could be gotten by using Dektol for both developing steps but D-88 appears to be a much higher contrast developer than most standard paper developers.
Another possibility is Ektonal, which is a carbonate-free developer using Hydroxide (as these are) in combination with a Borax-Boric acid buffer system.